Since the Coupé is a easy-click and the Cabriolet a full-detail, I am reviewing and comparing them side by side.

For both models, a lot of putty is required to straighten the body, there are a lot of imperfections and sink-marks in both body’s.
It is noticable, that the coupé covers the curves better, the cabriolet suffers from blotchy curves, that need a lot of sanding to get them realistic.

The Cabriolet has molded in pins for the tonneau-cover, because of the amount of sanding, I decided to eliminate them alltogether, rather than to accidentally erase a few, leaving with the rest.

The curves of the rear wing on the cabriolet are the worst, they should be curving smooth, but with the body, it is blotchy and almost a straight angle.

The area on the inside of the front wing, between the headlight and the frunk? needs fixing as well.

Revell engineered the kit pretty good, most ejector-pin marks are hidding and don’t have to be dealt with. This one does, it will be visible after assembling the rear-grilles.

The inside of the frunk-lid is also pretty bad.

Remarkably, the cabriolet has a ejector pin mark that has to be filled, where the coupé uses the same sprue and only needs to be sanded down.

The back-side of the steering wheel will be visible after assembling, so these marks needs to be taken care off as well.

After prepping the body, it is time for some filling-primer, I use alclad gray for this job.

After sanding the primer, I use white Vallejo acrylic primer to seal and blend everything together.

For the coupé, I use Vallejo Air rust as primary coat.

Toned with several shades of brown for some rusty effect.

For my very first time, I used the salt method to create some weathering.

But for the cabriolet, I used Zero Alpine blue for a nice sparkly paint job.

And the end-result, before the final coat. The Cabriolet will receive a 2K clearcoat and the Coupé a matt 2k clearcoat.

Both models start basically the same, weirdly the paint-call out is different, it could be due to the B and C version, but I have the idea it is more random.

    

So, I am starting with the same parts and try to build them alongside, even though the Easy-Click and the full-detail have a different build-sequence (for no reason, really). For the entire build, on the left is the easy-click and on the right is the full-detail.

The fit is ok, but due to the snap-basics, it does leave panelgaps.

The difference between both models is quite visible on the partscount in the enginebay. Even though, one can detail the easy-click with some detailpainting, it doesn’t look as good as the full-detail.

Weirdly, the easy-click comes with stickers to cover the holes that are used in the full-detail kit, best is to fill the holes with putty before painting, as this looks horrible.

And the both engines practically finished, the air-filters will come later.

On to the interior, they are to begin with the same.

But they only differ in the front seats, where the easy-click has a fixed back, the full-detail has moveable backs. Even though they don’t really work due to the construction.

For some reason, the fitment of the side interior panels fit a lot better with the easy-click than the full detail, with the full detail, a lot of force was applied in order to get it in the correct place.

And also caused damages to the seats, since the full-detail has opening doors, this has to be adressed.

the third and final update; things went quite fast, two big scale models, build within a matter of days. It does say something about the quality, most went together without much drama.
I continued with the dashboards, they are basically the same, except for the radio, which the B doesn’t have.

Nice detail from Revell; they made chrome plates for the dials, which gives it a nice look to it.

Unfortunately, they got the decals wrong for the dials, the rev counter is always in the middle, the speedo on the right and the check-lights on the left.

Everything comes together pretty decent, but it turns out later, that exact fitment is essential!

The two different engine-covers, I cut the tabs from the grill off. They didn’t fit very good and I couldn’t get the grilles to lay flush with the cover.

This is the frunk put together, it has some detail, but I don’t think it is (out of the box) worth it for the extra price. Most parts are also in the Coupe box, so even with the easy-click, you can make a frunk.

The bumpers come together nicely as well, although I had some issues with the rearbumper chrome rail on the coupé, I got the most left and right tabs off and glued the tips to the bumper.

Revell never states to cut off these tabs: but it is necessary to cut them, otherwise the cover will not fit flush.

As illustrated here.

Cutting the tabs off, gives a nice fit and it is starting to get somewhere.

The Coupé is now on the home-straight, most parts on the front are now assembled and the car is starting to come alive.

The windows needs some bare-metal foil treatment, which is very easy to do on this car. There are clear lines to keep the knive to for cutting the foil.

The cabriolet is now on the home-straight as well.

Some goofing around last night:

In order to get the interior inside the body, it is best to cut out the inside part of the cilindric tab to a conical shape, the tab inside the body catches quite easy on that edge and refuses to go inside. A bit of help, cutting the edge off works very well.

There is a slight panel gap between chassis and body, but nothing to be worried about

 

And the Coupé is done!

Up to finishing the Cabriolet. I installed all the parts in the rear.

And in the front.

In order to keep the frunk-cover flush with the body, it is necessary to cut off a piece of the tyre inside the frunk.

And they are done! I think it was about 3-4 evenings and 3 business days to get them done.

 

 

Thank you for watching, I hope it was helpful and all the best wishes for 2019!

 

 

 

 

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.